Cu. In. (16.4cc)
HP @ 22,000
READ ALL SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS! Failure to read, understand and follow
these instructions could result in personal injury and/or
property damage to yourself or others.
a few moments to familiarize yourself with the various parts
of the engine. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE YOUR ENGINE! Doing so will
void your warranty. No exceptions!
If you are unfamiliar with this line of carburetors or are
a new modeler, please do not attempt to start the engine until
you have read and understand the following instructions:
carburetor enables easy adjustment of the idle speed, idle
mixture and the high speed mixture.
HIGH SPEED NEEDLE VALVE
an area to install the Remote Needle Valve Assembly using
the bracket provided. This may typically be attached on
the firewall, cowl, or rear engine mount lug area. This
assembly must be in the fuel line between the tank and the
carburetor. The line should not exceed five (5) inches in
HIGH SPEED NEEDLE VALVE ADJUSTMENT
needle valve, located on the Remote Needle Valve Assembly,
controls all the fuel that comes to the engine, whether
the engine is running at high, mid-range, or idle speeds.
It does not affect the low speed rich/lean setting. The
High Speed Needle Valves main function, however, is
to meter the high-speed fuel mixture.
a starting point for the High Speed Needle Adjustment, completely
close the needle valve (clockwise), then open it (counter-clockwise)
three and a half turns. This setting is an average and may
require further adjustments. For higher altitudes (3,000
- 4,000 feet), close the needle valve approximately 1/2
LOW SPEED and MID-RANGE ADJUSTMENT
rich/lean adjustment is controlled by the brass low speed
disk located on the side of the carburetor. Using the allen
wrench provided, turn the disc clockwise to lean
the mixture and counter-clockwise to richen
the mixture. The rich/lean mixture control is set at the
factory and may require only a fine adjustment for your
DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE AT A LEAN SETTING.
|All series 94 carburetors
must run with exhaust pressure from the pipe to the fuel tank.
Because the drive cable is driven from the rear of the engine
instead of the front, this engine runs backwards (clockwise)
to the conventional engine. For the benefit of those of you
that are new to the sport of Model Outboarding, an electric
starter motor is required to start this engine. A conventional
model airplane starter is normally used. When attaching the
starter cords to the battery, make certain that the starter
also rotates clockwise. With the tank full of fuel, fuel line
attached to the carburetor, radio on and glow plug and washer
removed, fully open the carburetor venturi, and with your finger
covering the carburetor venturi, spin the engine until fuel
sprays out of the glow plug hole. Remove your finger and continue
to spin the engine until only a fine spray comes out of the
glow plug hole. This primes the engine. Now close the carburetor
venturi to the start/idle position, replace the glow plug and
washer, connect the glow plug battery wires to the glow plug,
and spin the engine again. This time, do not cover the venturi.
The engine should fire and run. We recommend that you start
your engine close to the waters edge so that you will not have
far to walk with the engine running. This minimizes the overheating
problems mentioned before.
GLOW PLUG: This Engine
is designed to use the Long Reach Glow Plug (K&B P/N 7311).
FUEL: We recommend using
K&B 1000+, 25% nitro.
HEAD and SLEEVE SHIMS:
The head clearance of your engine has been checked and set
as close as possible to 15 thousandths of an inch. A shim
may have been installed under the head to achieve this. Please
replace them should you need to disassemble the engine for
Check all bolts on engine and lower unit for tightness after
THE LOWER END: Tests
have proven that the cable drive is far superior to the gear
drive. Maintenance is cut down to a minimum. However, we ask
that you occasionally check and lubricate the flex cable.
Check for excess wear and fraying. Do not rotate the engine
by flipping the propeller in a counter-clockwise direction.
Fraying and unwinding may occur. We recommend a good silicone
base lube such as K&B marine grease (P/N 8449) for your
outboard as well as other drive units. Lubricate the shaft
generously and often.
NOTE: The prop shaft assembly and mating part
of the lower end casting is threaded (note: Left-hand Thread)
for ease of removal or replacement of the drive cable or
prop shaft assembly. Keep this assembly tight at all times.
As an option, silicone tubing may be placed between the water
outlet on the water jacket and the water fitting in the exhaust
cavity to reduce noise levels. If further noise reduction
is required, Muffler Plate (P/N 8770) may be added to the
MARINE PROPELLERS: Propellers
are naturally an important factor. Most propellers that are
available on the market need balancing and cleaning
up. Unbalanced props cause cracks on boat hulls, not
to mention robbing your engine of horsepower and your boat
of performance. So, balancing the prop is very important.
You can buy a fixture for checking balance or you can make
your own. Too make your own, mount two single edge razor blades,
sharp edges up, parallel to each other and about 1-1/2 inches
apart on a piece of aluminum U channel or make
your own U channel out of wood. Make sure the
sharp edges are level with each other and with the table.
Slip a length of 3/16 diameter shafting (drill blanks are
best) through the prop. Place the shaft across the razor blades
with the prop in between. The heavy side of the prop will
roll to the bottom. File on this area until the prop is balanced.
Do not file on the concave part of the prop.
Cleaning up the
propeller means to sharpen the leading edges of the blades
and generally sanding, smoothing, and polishing the entire
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part may be reproduced without written permission from
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